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Step 10: |
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Hints |
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<<<GO BACK TO STEP 9: SETTING THE ROCK EDGE |
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JUMP TO STEP 11: SELECTING AND ADDING PLANTS>>> |
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Creating a Waterfall |
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Page 1 of 3 |
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Over the many years that I have been installing ponds and waterfalls, I have seen a lot of "attempts" by so-called professional pond installers to build a waterfall. About half my work is new pond installations and the other half is rebuilding ponds that someone else installed incorrectly. The two biggest mistakes people make in the waterfall construction are: 1. They slope the waterfall up from the lip of |
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| the pond edge to the top of where the water comes out, and; 2. They use excavated or loose dirt and mound it up in a pile to create the elevation they want to achieve. |
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| First, let me tell you that rocks do not set on a sloped surface for very long, especially if that surface is covered with slick, rubber pond liner. Second, excavated or loose dirt settles. I have seen a "dirt pile" waterfall settle 2 1/2 feet over |
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the course of a year, sending the water from the pond in every direction except back into the pond. |
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The secret to creating a beautiful waterfall is STEPS. Back in Step 5: Digging Your Pond, I said that you should be able to walk the entire perimeter of your pond once it's dug. Let me restate: The entire perimeter of your pond should be level |
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| with the proposed finished water level of the pond. That includes where the waterfall will enter the pond. |
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| In addition to the reasons I listed above, waterfalls do not work on a slope because we want the water to flow OVER the rocks and create a sheeting action. This sheeting action will give you the sound and look of a real waterfall. We wil therefore be cutting STEPS into the excavated dirt you piled up from the filter box forward to the pond. |
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| <<<GO BACK TO STEP 9: SETTING THE ROCK EDGE |
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CLICK HERE TO GO TO PAGE 2>>> |
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Write me at: pondgal@gridcom.net |
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